Q.
I need some new shoes and would like something more exciting than the usual
dress loafer. I gather that you basically are opposed to “interesting” shoes
for men, but is there anything a bit off-beat that you do like?
A. You are right that I favor classic shoes
for men, especially for business and dressy wear. And it is not just my
opinion. By and large, the vast
majority of well-dressed men in America look askance on gimmicky men's shoes.
Still, there are a few exceptions.
Even among dressy shoes, there are shoe options. Dark
wing tips are one possibility, but may seem a bit heavy for summer wear. Many
men opt for the quieter cousin of the wing tip, the cap toe. Or, instead, a
"hot" old style is a rather flamboyant two-toned wing tip, known as
the "spectator."
A throwback to the '30s, the original
black-and-white smooth-leather versions conjure up images of Fred and Ginger .
. . or Al Capone! These days – especially with the popularity of the “Mad Men”
retro looks – spectators are considered very dashing. That said, not everyone
can carry off the look. The brown-and-white combination is less severe than the
black-and-whites. Next are the brown-and-beige calf combinations, and even
softer are the brown-leather-and-bone-linen mix. A fellow with attitude, who
loves clothes, might pair any of these with double-breasted suits, with summer
linens, or with a seersucker suit. Spectator shoes conjure up images of the
movies and having fun. Somehow, I picture a guy in a belted trench coat, a
turned-up collar, and a low-slung Jaguar.
But casual shoe styles allow for a lot more
leeway than dress shoes. The same sort of secure fellow who wears spectators
might choose two-toned saddle shoes on weekends or wear white bucks to his
country club. While these do not require nearly as much self-assurance as
spectators, they do suggest a certain amount of daring. As to colors, I have
always considered acceptable only the few basics for a dress shoe: black, dark
brown, and cordovan (a slightly reddish brown, not as red as burgundy). On the
other hand, casual men’s shoes can go off in some wilder directions. The
prestigious American shoe manufacturer, Allen Edmonds, offers some interesting
color and style choices.
Allen Edmonds recently introduced a new
crossover from dress shoe into the casual, fun shoe category, called the
Broadstreet. A casual wing tip, it is a novel lace-up weekend style (with
stitching in white!) for the man who is not afraid to wear something different.
A less offbeat style is their Neumok, a lace-up designed to be worn with or
without socks. The Sedona is a slip-on made of rougher-textured leather. In
addition to brown, they come in sand, olive green, navy, and red. The look and fit are much better than most sneakers. These fun shoes are the cool guy's version
of the preppy dresser's deck shoes – perfect to wear with khakis, jeans, and
shorts. Worn with jeans and an
ironed shirt, they give an above average, pulled-together look with very little
effort.
Of course, sandals, flip-flops, and soft
driving shoes have always come in a variety of different colors. A distinctive
and smart new line of brightly-colored loafers from Norway can be found online
at SWIMS Shoes. Their colors even include a bright yellow. Incidentally,
a colorful pair of fun, casual shoes could make a welcome Father’s Day gift
(even better than a new tie).
Nevertheless, acceptance of such an offbeat
concept as olive or red casual shoes for weekend “fun” wear should in no way be
construed as my approval of any of the age-old dressy no-no's such as gray
shoes, blue shoes, or white smooth-leather shoes. These types of dress shoes
have never (and still do not) say good things about the taste of the wearer.
Perhaps the safest place to be adventuresome with shoes is on the golf course,
even though I'm not sure I love all-white men’s shoes there either.
