Pocket Squares

Q. I like the look of a handkerchief in a suit or sport jacket’s breast pocket. When is it appropriate? Is it ever not appropriate? 

Folded white linen handkerchief

A. The guidelines for wearing a pocket-handkerchief are really quite simple. (Incidentally, clothing people refer to the silk version as a "pocket square.") It is always appropriate with a jacket and tie – from the formality of "black tie" to dressy suits and blazers, and including casual tweed sports coats. It is almost never inappropriate if you are wearing a jacket. And you don’t need to be wearing a tie.

A simple way to ease into this style is to tuck a white linen handkerchief into your breast pocket – always safe and never wrong, though perhaps a bit formal. For more dash and sophistication, choose a colorful silk pocket square.

Remember, when wearing a tie and colored silk pocket square, the two patterns should never match exactly. A matched tie-and-handkerchief-set is more than a tad tacky -- like dressing out of a kit. Instead, aim for the tie and pocket square to complement each other and your shirt or suit by repeating at least one of the colors and by not repeating the exact pattern. For example: Consider a blue suit, white shirt, and red-and-blue small-patterned tie. A good choice would be a navy silk square with a large red paisley pattern. Or for another example: With a tan suit, a light blue shirt, and a blue and brown striped tie, try a brown and blue polka dot pocket square – these are pulled-together mixes that don't seem overly contrived or too worked on.

Wearing a pocket handkerchief is a different and somewhat natty way to dress, but it is definitely not right for everyone. Some men, who have a low “feeling-silly” threshold, would be self-conscious and feel too much like a dandy with a handkerchief in their breast pocket. Men with these concerns should never think of wearing one. (And their spouses should not try to buy them one as a gift; it won't work.)

On the other hand, many men do wear a pocket square with self-assurance and comfort. As an example, a man attending one of my lectures told me that once, when he forgot his silk pocket square, he returned home for it. Another man, one of the classiest dressers I know, never wears a pocket handkerchief for business or casual weekends. He likes to use his as a transition step between wearing a suit-and-tie and dressing in "black tie." He says it's the sort of look he might wear to a former girl friend's wedding. Obviously, these men are very different types of dressers.

Pocket squares do not need to be silk. Cotton handkerchiefs, in either white or a soft color, have a more casual air and are perfect with a tweed sports jacket. It goes without saying – but I will say it anyway – a pocket square is part of the outfit and not meant to be used as a handkerchief.

A pocket-handkerchief is usually worn folded with the points up or else with the center softly puffed and the points down. It is supposed to be a subtle touch, not exaggerated. You can Google “How to fold a pocket square” for helpful tips.

A note of caution: The points should not be too perfectly lined-up like soldiers or a picket fence. A young man at one of my lectures proudly showed me how he had carefully folded his handkerchief over a small cardboard template to make the points come out precisely even. Wrong! A certain air of nonchalance is what you are aiming for. It should be visible just enough to expose an inch or two of fabric above the pocket. A pocket square that flops out too much – like a flower – does not have a dashing man-about-town effect. It looks more like a dandy.

Back to School: What are Kids Wearing These Days?

Lands' End

 Q. I am very late with my shopping for my ten-year-old stepson for back to school. My mom seems to think he should be dressed in “nice” clothes. What are kids wearing these days?

A. It’s not too late to shop. Kids don’t necessarily need to have all their school gear on the very first day of school.

Their school clothes need to be versatile and comfortable. Kids don't come home from school and change their clothes before heading out to play. And even while they’re at school, they need to be dressed for recess and gym. So, no matter how much grandmothers may love the old-fashioned “nice” looks, today kids’ clothes need to be more realistic and useful.

Active boys can be hard on their clothing, so look for tops and bottoms such as basic T-shirts, polos, and jeans that offer durable fabrics. While it’s true that boys need durability, even young boys also want style. Striped rugby shirts, "hoodies," and down vests are not just for adults and teens. From the soccer field to science class, a roomy fit, looser styling, and carefree cotton make young guys happy.

And this season everything for boys has an "active" look. From athletic numerals to cargo pants, clothing comes in new tie-dyed prints, plaids, and bright solid colors, such as blues, greens, and reds, layered over the usual navy, green, and gray. Oh, yes, graphic Tees are everywhere. Boys like them because they are a way to individualize their look.

You will find a wealth of choices from department stores and such online sources as Lands' End Kids. Also check out quality discount stores like Marshalls for up-to-date items with the extra features boys want, like cargo pockets, all at greatly reduced prices.

In addition to rugged pants, relaxed shirts, and warm jackets, the one essential item in every kid's school wardrobe is a backpack. A recent survey revealed that about 30 percent of boys and girls ages 8-13 consider a backpack a must-have item for school. This is probably because kids put whatever they can fit into them. In addition to books and homework, they store iPods, art supplies, their lunch, and fun stuff not related to school, like video games.

According to the American Chiropractic Association, over-stuffing a backpack can lead to back problems later in life. Kids should carry backpacks that are no more than eight to ten percent of the child's weight and they should use both straps, allowing the pack to hang properly on the small of their backs. When loaded, an 80-pound kid’s backpack should not weigh more than eight pounds.

Color and pattern are on the top of kids’ list. 65% of kids said it was the most important quality for choosing a backpack, while 68% of moms said that durability was the most important feature in a backpack. The new backpacks at Lands’ End offer a variety of color and pattern choices and are built to last for more than one school year.

Kids have ideas of their own, especially about color, and they know what their friends are wearing. It makes sense to shop in partnership with your stepson, instead of just for him.

Men's Yellow Shirts

Izod

Q. I’ve noticed that you mention yellow as one of the basic shirt colors. What shade of yellow do you mean?


A. Yellow is a welcome change from all those standard white and blue shirts in a man's closet. I recommend three different shades of yellow shirts as part of a well-rounded wardrobe. Each one suits a different need.

Canary or lemon yellow, the bright shade that immediately comes to mind, is the least versatile. But it is not to be overlooked. It is great as a sport shirt; it adds spark worn under a dark patterned sweater. For dress shirts, it is perfect with beige or gray tweed sport jackets, and it looks smart with a navy blazer. Thus, it's a natural for weekend dressing and for offices where men dress down for business. But bright yellow is not a flattering color on everyone. If your coloring is fair, it may tend to "wash you out." On the other hand, redheads and a lot of guys with dark hair and eyes look terrific in bright yellow.

The second shade is softer and paler than bright taxicab yellow; some stores call it "maize." It is a step dressier than the brighter shade and flattering to more men. It goes with all the same clothes as the bold yellow shirt and looks great with khaki suits, particularly with a nice summer tan. Also, it is terrific with the popular year-round duo of navy blazer and khaki (or olive) pants.

The third shade is the dressiest, the most elegant, the most flattering, and – unfortunately – the hardest to find. I have never understood why more manufacturers do not make it. It is a soft cream or ivory shade – not the beige/tan shade known as ecru (as in elevator operator and delivery men's uniforms). If you're not sure what I am describing, picture vanilla ice cream or freshly whipped cream. This rich color – in both senses of the word – goes nicely with just about every suit, blazer, sports jacket, and sweater. Often it can substitute for a dressy white shirt. It flatters every complexion. The fabric you are most likely to find this color in is a fine cotton pinpoint Oxford cloth or a high quality cotton in smooth broadcloth. If you come across one, snap it up; but keep in mind that it will probably not be inexpensive.

Not all yellow dress shirts are solid color. A yellow-and-white stripe is a welcome addition to a man’s Oxford cloth button-down collection. Lands’ End has a spaced stripe in gold and blue. Brooks Brothers has a yellow gingham check. Charles Tyrwhitt has a handsome yellow and light blue stripe. And I recently found a great-looking yellow with a fine blue windowpane pattern at Paul Stuart.

Neckties that work especially well with yellow shirts are stripes or small all-over patterns with a bit of yellow in the design (not as the background color). With a yellow shirt, ties in such background colors as blue, black, green, or brown all become more sophisticated if yellow is part of the pattern. For men who have trouble coordinating colors, a yellow shirt is particularly useful, because – unlike other colors – the various different shades of yellow do not seem to clash.

Since most men own white and blue shirts in every permutation from solid to stripes, a yellow shirt offers a refreshing change of pace – something a bit different without being outlandish.

The Tie Makes a Difference

Q. You often discuss men’s neckties, but these days I am seeing fewer and fewer guys wearing ties. This seems to suggest that men are dressing more casually. Do you think this is actually true? I am in an industry – and an office – where we still dress in suits for work. Even though most of the others go without a tie, I wear a tie, unless it is wickedly hot outside. Are some fields different? I guess what I’m asking is: Are ties still important?

A. Yes, the standard office style of dressing depends largely on the industry, and some fields are more formal than others. Sadly, you are also right that fewer men are wearing ties. In fact, these days a lot of men don’t. But in many offices at least one or two guys still wear them. This is especially true where those one or two men are the ones with a large dose of self-confidence and an ongoing desire to look professional.

Over the years that I have been lecturing and writing about how men can dress to look their best, I’ve often heard them complain that the uniformity of men’s clothes forces them into a sea of sameness. Yet, as you point out, this one item in a man’s wardrobe – the one that not only allows for individuality and distinction, but that actually cries out for it – is often the first item that men eliminate.

A dark suit or dark jacket plus a light shirt is still pretty much the business – and dressy social – uniform. In a room full of men dressed in this get-up without the welcome addition of a colorful necktie, the overall effect is sure to be dull, dull, dull. Personally, I cannot fathom why any man with a strong sense of self would want to disappear so completely into the background. In every other aspect of life, most people try to stand out, to distinguish themselves from the herd. Why not – at least somewhat – in their dress? But then, I am not exactly the most objective person to ask about this.

I may seem to be pressing hard to encourage the pendulum’s continued swing from “business casual” to more formal business attire. Well, yes, I do favor such a return and am pleased to see the renewed interest in dressing well for business (and also social occasions). But I’m not fooled into thinking the tide will turn totally or dramatically any time soon. A certain degree of casual dress for business has become too firmly entrenched to disappear completely. Even those men who are influenced by the new formal/dressy “Mad Men” look and are wearing more suits than before, now choose somewhat more casual suits than the dark pin-stripes and chalk-stripes of a decade ago.

The important point about today’s way of dressing – one of the biggest changes from the “business casual” look of five to seven years ago – is clearly evidenced in the shirts men are now wearing. Back then, business casual truly was casual; we saw a lot of polo-type knit shirts worn alone with khakis or under sport coats. That look is pretty much gone. Today, whether a man wears a suit or a sport jacket – either with or without a tie – he will usually be wearing a dress shirt. In fact, dress shirts are hugely popular these days! And they are often a dressy style, such as a straight-point collar or spread collar, instead of the more relaxed button-downs that were synonymous with Wall Street a while back. A lot of today’s dress shirts go beyond the expected solid whites and solid blues. The big swing is to what the clothing industry calls “fancies”; these include gingham checks, diamond-weave textures, tattersalls, and all varieties of stripes. Another variation from a while back is that shirts are slightly trimmer in cut – not body-hugging tapered, but certainly less voluminous than the old Brooks Brothers cut. In addition, French cuffs (which at one time were limited to dressed-up occasions and dressy ties) have become extremely popular, even without a tie.

So, yes, we are seeing more suits than a few years back and more dress shirts, and also, yes, we are seeing many more men wearing those suits and shirts without a tie.

Nevertheless, I’m sure I am not alone in thinking that wearing a tie is a smart move for a man who wishes to set himself apart from the crowd. Good for you. Stick to your guns!

Black-Tie Dressing

Q. I am attending a black-tie event later this month. Recently you wrote about what the groom wears for a black-tie wedding, but I still have a few questions. Maybe you can give me some more information about tuxedoes – regarding which lapel type to choose and the appropriate pants.

A. These are important considerations, particularly if you are buying your black-tie suit, rather than renting. The most important point about black-tie dressing is that it makes a man look wonderful. If a man has even one or two occasions a year to wear it, he should strongly consider owning his own. I cannot recommend it too highly. As I often say regarding renting: Try to picture James Bond dressed in a tuxedo worn last week by an eager, fresh-faced senior!

Now, as to the specifics, when discussing lapels, you really need to think about the collar and the lapel as a package concern.

Suit collar-and-lapel styles are designed in three different cuts:
1. Shawl – traditional curve cut, used only on formal wear (less flattering on a heavy man)
2. Peaked – most dashing, more often found on double-breasted jackets
3. Notched – least formal, a standard business-suit cut.

Lapel fabrics are:
1. Satin – a silk-like, smooth, glossy fabric
2. Grosgrain (pronounced grow’-grain) – a ribbed twill-type fabric that is far less common than satin – it has a special refined elegance.

Closings are either single- or double-breasted.
1. The classic single-breasted cut is guaranteed to remain in style forever.
2. A double-breasted cut should probably not be your first and only choice because it comes in and goes out of style (although it is dashing and very flattering).

If I’m discussing the front, I probably also should mention the back of the jacket.

Back vents:
1. A single vent in the back of the jacket is the most traditional
2. Double back vents (also known as side vents) are very British
3. A ventless (that is, no back vent) jacket has a dashing 1940s look (think Humphrey Bogart in “Casablanca”).

As for the trousers:
Trousers have a ribbon that matches the lapel material – satin or grosgrain – running down the side of the leg. Pants are cut straight, not tapered; they are worn with braces (button-on suspenders), never a belt; they should be a shade longer than other pants, with a full break and no cuffs.

A black-tie outfit need not be expensive. It need only be classically cut and tailored to fit well. Ideally, it is made of 100 percent lightweight wool. You might even get lucky in a vintage shop and find a gently used model that can be altered to fit you beautifully. Stay with the basics in the suit; leave whimsy – if any – for the accessories.