FASHION WEEK in NEW YORK

In a departure from my regular men’s how-to-dress “Male Call” column, today’s column covers some of my observations during Fashion Week in New York this past week.

While attending Fashion Week, I began to wonder which was more interesting: the clothes the models were wearing on the runways or those on the people who were attending the shows. In both cases, the outfits ranged from the most way-out streetwear to over-the-top gowns. I kept asking myself the old questions: Who would wear such a get-up, and where could she/he wear it?

The word that kept coming to mind was one that I emphasize in my column, “appropriateness.” Much of what I saw would require a great deal of imagination to be included in that category.
People who attended the shows wore everything you could think of, and then some. Lots of full-length dresses worn in the daytime and lots of wildly patterned jackets on both women and men. Stripes showed up in every size and direction. Quite a few women wore fur jackets over strapless gowns, and glitter boots at 3:00 in the afternoon. Men in the audience wore long, colorful scarves, shiny silvery blazers, and sometimes both, instead of the expected New York “black.” Men also wore lots of view-blocking hats, way too many types of sneakers, and a preponderance of unnecessary sunglasses. Most of these outdoor-wear items seemed hard to justify with shows held at such iconic indoor locations as Spring Studios and Grand Central Terminal’s famous Oyster Bar.

Without a doubt, the most spectacularly beautiful gowns I saw were from the couture designer, Randi Rahm, known for her super-chic clothes and fabulous wedding dresses. Each garment was an individual work of art. Some of the special touches included elaborate beading, custom woven fabrics, thigh-high (and above) slits (several embellished with flowers) , ruffles and lace, intricate handwork done in a back room on the premises (not in Asia), and too many unexpected details to recall. Among my favorites was a black-and-crystal latticework cropped jacket that could be worn over the slim black gown the model had on or over a special short dress already in one’s closet. These were all displayed on beautiful models walking around the designer’s atelier/showroom rather than on a runway . . . adding intimacy as well as a chance to see up close – and touch – the unique fabrics. I met a private customer who had flown in from California to shop for several outfits she will wear to upcoming social events. Prices are in keeping with the custom work; they begin at $3,500 and go up to $10,000 for couture; the even more customized haute couture pieces can cost many times that top number!
Interestingly, for the past few seasons, ever since Fashion Week stopped being centralized and organized under one large umbrella at Lincoln Center, I have been trying to determine why the shows have become so scattered. They are held in dozens of different locations and it is often very difficult to find where and when they will be. Another huge difference: Throughout the years that I have been going, people who attended the shows were invited members of the press, store buyers, and the top customers of the individual designers. No one could buy a ticket. Times have changed drastically, and now I understand why the shows are not once again organized. They have become cash cows. Tickets are for sale for most shows, many at outrageous prices. The lowest price I learned was $25 and the highest I found was $1,799, for one show! Everything has become a source of income.

Still, I can understand why some people will pay to travel and attend the shows. They are fun: The off-beat locations, the dramatic staging, the blaring music, the people-watching, plus some of the most imaginative clothes to be found anywhere, add up to a very special – and unforgettable – experience.

Fashion shows were held all over the City. A few of the larger venues, such as Style Fashion Week’s shows at the well-known New York restaurant, Cipriani, presented a series of shows from different designers, one after the another. They ranged from shows made up of kids dressed in very provocative adult-looking clothes, through shows with men’s streetwear styles based on sports attire, to exciting women’s daytime wear and gowns that any woman would love to own.

Since the styles presented at this Fashion Week were for Fall/Winter 2018, it seemed odd to see so much near-nudity, on both sexes. Hemlines were all over the map: Long, extremely short, and often asymmetrical. The amount of glitter on the runways in embellished ball gowns, jumpsuits, and skin-tight leggings was blinding. Many of the models strutted the runways wearing seriously dangerous stilt-like stiletto heels.

Up-Dating Your Look without Breaking the Bank

Q. I am not a clothes horse, but I do like to look good. I am 45 and work with up-and-coming young guys in their 20’s. Some of my colleagues look as if they just stepped out of GQ. Lately, my wife has been complaining about my clothes, especially my suits. She says they’re too baggy, that the ones in ads and on TV are trimmer. Is she right? Are the new clothes different? Is there a way to update my look without investing a fortune?

A. It is likely that she is correct. Men, as a rule, don’t like change. But, in today’s business world, a lot of men are competing with younger men. See what your competition is wearing. Invest in a couple of men’s dress magazines and check out what the look is. You can get an enormous amount of information from the Internet. Look around and see what is going on. Yes, suits are cut a bit trimmer. Accessories are a bit sharper.

It’s all about whatever advantage you can gain. You may need a more up-to-date, more contemporary look – nothing dramatic, but a little different. A man is giving his age away by not looking as current as he could.

Just a few years ago, the innovative men’s clothing designer, Thom Browne, introduced a totally new “too-short, shrunken” look – suits with skin-tight jackets and ridiculously short “flood pants.” The look was so extreme that most people dismissed it altogether. But, here’s what happened: While the super-skinny look did not catch on exactly as he showed it on fashion show runways, it did gradually influence everything in the men’s clothing industry: Jackets got a smidgeon shorter, so did pants; lapels narrowed slightly, so did ties; the silhouette got trimmer and closer to the body; pleated pants disappeared in favor of flat-fronts, and even my own favorite – pants with cuffs and a good break – became less popular. Other elements in the economy converged with this impetus; so, now the entire men’s style has veered toward a narrower, neater, and cleaner look.

While there is some expense in these purchases, it helps your image to make wise changes. It has been said that in something like 80% of job interviews the interviewer makes a decision in the first minute and a half. To an extent this may mean that your resumé and letter (and call) may have earned you the position, but you must not lose it in those 90 seconds – and that certainly includes your appearance.

I can’t stress enough how helpful it is to find a good tailor. He can take your suit jackets in a shade to give them a trimmer, slightly more tapered look. And he can make the sleeves a tad shorter. Of course, a lot depends on your body type. This slimmer look requires a body that is in reasonably good shape. If yours is too wide, the newer slim-cut styles won’t work as well.

Guys who are slimmer and trimmer – in better shape – want to flaunt it. And rightly so. Fitness gives you a new “up” feeling. It may not be fair, but in the business world it is one more advantage. Maybe you need to get a personal trainer or at least go to the gym. If you look tired and frumpy, it says you’re not making an effort – and makes you look old. Being in shape improves both your health and your appearance.

As to what to do about the suits, check your closet. Maybe the pinstriped suits are passé, maybe you need a style that is a little less uptight, more relaxed – perhaps a solid color. If a suit is 20 years old or looks shabby, bite the bullet and get rid of it. Anything else can probably be tweaked. This might also be the time to put away for a few years any suits or blazers with a three-button-closure. But your standard two-button jackets will still be fine.

It's not necessary to make an expensive clean sweep. Instead, add one new suit or two at a time, and phase out old ones the same way. When you go suit shopping, look for “sales.” If you shop carefully, you can get up to 40 % off. Look for bargain prices, but not bargain-basement quality. Buy fewer and buy better. Careful "On Sale" shopping helps bring top quality clothes into your price range.

Buy suits with a classic cut. Two-button single-breasteds are good choices. They never go out of style. Opt for double vents in back (also known as "side vents")or a center back vent. New trousers should have flat fronts without too much break. While suit jackets can be slimmed down, updating pants is a lot harder. A tailor can take them in a bit in the seat and shorten them slightly, but some alterations may not be worth doing.

You don’t have to spend a fortune to make a big difference in your appearance. One way to trim up your look is just to invest in a few new clean, crisp white or light blue shirts. And although, generally speaking, a man’s tie should be as wide as his jacket’s lapel, if your lapels are somewhat on the wide side, you can pair them with slightly narrower ties, say between 2¾ and 3½ inches. This will neaten your look. In fact, if yours is a really hip office, sadly, maybe you have to discard the tie altogether.

Always invest in good shoes; keep them polished and in good repair. If no one in your office wears classic lace-ups, invest in good slip-ons. Shoes, too, should fit your environment and not look dated.

From head to toe, you can make small (often inexpensive) changes that will improve and update your appearance.


Have questions of your own? Feel free to email me at Lois.Fenton@prodigy.net