Friday, July 6, 2018

What to wear when it is hot and humid

Q. I will be traveling to a very hot and humid climate later this month. What fabrics are the coolest and most comfortable for me to take with me?

A. Cotton, cotton, and cotton. Nothing is cooler than all-cotton (100 percent) garments. When you look at the world of fabrics, cotton, linen, silk, and wool are the “natural fibers.” They are traditional, classic, cool, comfortable, and more expensive than synthetics.

COTTON is used in lightweight suits and jackets of poplin, seersucker, cord, and gabardine, in shirts, in summer dress pants, khakis, jeans, shorts, socks, and underwear. Strong, lightweight, comfortable, and cool, cotton’s qualities are highly desirable. If a cotton fabric has any percentage of synthetic fiber added to it, the garment becomes less comfortable.                         

I would recommend your opting for cotton for much of the clothing you travel with and that you wear back home during the summer (assuming you aren't in northern Alaska). Every man’s summer wardrobe should include these cotton classics: a khaki poplin single-breasted suit, pastel-colored blazer, dark dress trousers and light chinos, a sweater, several fine dress shirts, and an assortment of short-sleeved casual tops ranging from polos to Tee’s.

I would caution, that if you are buying all-cotton no-iron shirts, you should buy one from each of a few different brands to determine which one feels the coolest. When a manufacturer adds the chemical wrinkle-free treatment to the fabric, it may affect its breathability, even though the shirt is 100 percent cotton.   

LINEN, sometimes called “flax,” an elegant and luxurious fabric, is a second choice or a pricier first choice. Its light weight and its tendency to carry heat away from the body make it a favorite cloth for summer suits, jackets, and neckties – expensive ones. Because linen wrinkles easily, manufacturers often blend it with cotton, silk, wool, or shape-retaining synthetics. Skip the synthetic blends. People who are knowledgeable about linen’s distinctive properties say it has “regal wrinkles.” Linen adds luster and subtlety to a jacket or pair of trousers. An outfit of rich ivory-toned linen is a handsome addition to a summer weekend wardrobe. 

SILK is another natural fiber to include occasionally in your warm-weather selections. Some silk can be affordable and others can be a once-a-decade splurge. Its incomparably smooth touch and light weight make it a good alternate choice as long as you realize that it can be wrinkly and can show unattractive evidence of perspiration. Armholes should be loose.

WOOL should not be totally overlooked as summer wear – perhaps not for you on this trip – but definitely back home. Here, weight is an extremely important factor. Featherweight and tropical-weight wools are very different from winter-weight and ten-month weight wools. A well-dressed man is likely to have at least one super lightweight wool summer suit and a navy go-with-everything tropical wool blazer in his closet. 

MAN-MADE FIBERS should be shunned. In hot, muggy environments, avoid fabric blends that include the words polyester, nylon, or synthetic. Different people’s bodies react differently to synthetics. Some do not tolerate any amount well in humid weather. But those who do not react so strongly can choose fabrics with small percentages of non-natural fibers. The big exception to my zero-tolerance-for-synthetics attitude: 90 or 95 percent natural fiber and only five or ten percentage in a “stretch” (Spandex) fiber seems to work just fine, Also, notice that I did not warn against rayon fabric. As explained to me by my chemical engineer son, rayon is not actually one of the synthetics that are made from petroleum. Because rayon is made from wood (which grows), it feels like silk yet is similar to cotton. Its airy construction allows it “to breathe.”

Unfortunately, there is no sure way to know ahead of time (that is, at the time you are making the purchase), which cotton garments will turn out to be the coolest and your favorites. A few clues that might help you choose are high thread-count yarns and a silky feel. But beware: polyester also has a silky feel. Read the labels carefully. Stay cool.

Ways to look slimmer

Q. Now that he is in his 40’s, my husband is beginning to show a little weight around the middle. It isn't significant, but he's a bit upset about it.  He would never ask, but are there some clothes that would hide this?

A. For all the griping men often do about clothing and business dress, what one wears can provide advantages: whether it is making one look professional, younger, cooler, more fun, or less heavy. There are definitely straightforward suggestions I can provide him and all men, general guidelines to consider before setting out to invest in new clothes. If you are heavy (particularly around the middle), focus attention on your face by wearing compellingly interesting shirts and ties. Create an illusion of slimness by using vertical lines when possible; they force the eye to sweep up and down. Dark colors can make you appear ten to fifteen pounds lighter. And buttoning your jacket (if it still fits correctly) can also accomplish this same illusion of slimness.

SUIT FEATURES TO LOOK FOR:

  • Striped suits – pin, chalk, shadow – with closely-spaced stripes
  • Single-breasted suits, jackets, and coats
  • Jackets with tailored (slightly padded) shoulders, nipped waists, and center vents

SUIT AND JACKET FABRICS TO SELECT:

  • Medium- or lightweights. Avoid bulky fabrics.
  • Smooth textures
  • Dark, cool, and muted colors
  • Simple patterns. Avoid “busy” patterns, such as bold plaids, which add bulk visually.
  • Blazers/jackets and trousers of nearly matching or similar tones help direct the eye up and down. Avoid sharp contrasts between jacket and trousers, which direct the eye across.

TROUSERS:

  • Opt for flat-front (non-pleated) styling or very small pleats. No matter what some may tell you, pleats do not conceal/camouflage a belly.
  • Trousers with side-tabs can be a good alternative to attention-grabbing belts.
  • If you are wide in the seat (hips), avoid carrying anything in your back pockets.

SHIRTS:

  • Vertical stripes in dress and sport shirts are visually elongating.
  • Choose shirt collars that are low in back and on the sides, and with a narrow spread. Avoid the horizontal line of a wide-spread collar.
  • Also wear button-down collars and trim tab collars.

OTHER GARMENTS:

  • Wear long (four-in-hand) neckties and narrow (also four-in-hand) knots. Avoid bow ties.
  • For sportswear, wear sweaters that cover (extend past) the waist in cardigans or pullovers. They actually do help conceal/camouflage a belly.
  • Choose non-bulky sweaters with vertical stripes, vertical ribbing, or not-too-large patterns. 
  • Avoid belts in sharply contrasting colors. 
  • For a man who can carry off this bit of style, an eye-catching scarf in the colder months makes a great vertical line. So does a good-looking pair of braces (button-on suspenders).

NOTES:

  • Wear knit shirts such as polos and T’s untucked, thus, avoiding accenting the unattractive overhang of a “beer belly.”
  • Avoid wearing anything too small, too tight, or too short.
  • Emphasize neutral colors; avoid anything too bold or bright.
  • Meticulous grooming plus well-cut and carefully tailored clothes are essential to avoid triggering any thoughts of “sloppy fat.”

AN IMPORTANT OVERWORD:  You can use many tricks to create the look you want. You cannot eliminate all the negatives, but you certainly can learn to emphasize the positives. To summarize: Aim for smooth textures, dark and neutral colors, vertical lines, precise tailoring, meticulous grooming. Be open to trying a few of these proven approaches. You will be happy with the results.