Made-to-Measure Suits

Q. I don't live anywhere near a good men's store, but nevertheless I need a suit that fits. What do you think of ordering a Made-to-Measure Suit? I don't see how one could fit right even if I sent them my exact measurements. Don't you always need to tailor a suit, especially for the jacket? After all, some men -- including myself -- have a kind of extra "hump" at the upper part of their back, and jackets that don't fit right tend to lift up at the bottom.

A. I cannot imagine how you could determine your “exact measurements” accurately enough to have a suit made to your specifications from afar. You would be seriously looking for trouble. There are too many variables: the correct inseam measurement, the outseam, the back, the shoulder slope, etc., etc. Keep in mind that once a made-to-measure suit is cut, it is yours; no if’s, and’s, or but’s. It just would not work. 

It’s much easier – and your satisfaction is more assured  – if you travel some distance to a good men’s store than to attempt to order a made-to-measure suit from a distance.

                                     

If you do decide to travel to a top-notch store – one that you feel confident will supply you with an excellent fit – you can either order a made-to-measure suit from them or, perhaps better yet, buy two of their finest ready-made suits while you are there. Their tailors will make them fit. And these days, when current style dictates suit silhouettes that are a bit slimmer and trimmer, a good fit becomes even more important.                                       

  

I should preface this advice by saying that when looking for a new suit, it is wise to develop a well-thought-out shopping strategy. First step, before you accept the offer from a salesperson to help you, ask to speak to the Store Manager (or at least the Suit Department Manager). I am a firm believer in approaching the manager before you begin to shop. Explain your situation clearly and unmistakably. Tell the manager that you are “a difficult fit” and that you really need him to find you the salesperson who knows the most about fit, not just the one whose turn it is to wait on the next customer. My advice is to say – in the nicest, most polite terms you can muster – that fit is extremely important to you and that you will be returning the suit if it does not fit properly. That gets their attention! And will get you their most experienced salesperson. Then follow it up with a similar request for a knowledgeable tailor. You cannot imagine how much anxiety this removes from the entire shopping experience.    

                                                          

As an alternative, if you are unwilling to travel some distance to find an outstanding men’s clothing store, your path is less clear and the outcome is more questionable. 

                                              

While I may be speculating here, I’ll bet there is at least a decent men’s shop (even if not what you consider to be “a good men’s store”) not too far away. The store probably has a qualified tailor who can do a good job of altering their off-the-rack suits.

Or if not, perhaps they can help you locate a good independent tailor. With his help, you might be able to buy suits with more confidence from a nearby mid-level store, or through a catalog, or even online. But the truth is that finding an excellent tailor on your own is not easy. (Your wife’s dressmaker or the alteration person at your local dry-cleaner is not a satisfactory substitute!) If the store has no name to offer, your best bet is to ask a friend whose clothes fit him well for a recommendation.

                                  

Note: For young men whose bodies are nearly perfect, buying an off-the-rack suit that fits nicely is not difficult. Most suits will fit them. But as a person ages, and as his body develops its own little (and not so little) idiosyncrasies, a good fit becomes more problematic. Unfortunately, many men do not care so much about the fine points. But, since you are more invested in the idea of a “suit that fits,” then traveling a bit to accomplish your goal becomes well worth the investment of time.

After all, suits last for years, and one that fits you perfectly will not only bring you much satisfaction but many compliments.