Q. The only bow ties I have ever worn were
black tie with formal wear, but I'm thinking of bringing them into my business
wardrobe. Are the color matching rules for bow ties the same as for other
ties and are there any specific don'ts with bow ties? Finally, to
give you a better understanding of my thoughts, if I'm going this far, I want
to do something different but not ridiculous -- I see that as bright pink, or
Pulitzer. Thanks in advance for the help.
A. I am
happy to report that the pendulum of style for younger men has swung back to dressing
up; the mind set of grungy dressing has passed. So, I understand your new
interest in incorporating this functional accessory – the bow tie – into your
mode of dressing. It can be useful at work, at the club, or when you are going
out with your friends. Celebrities such as Justin Timberlake, Ryan Gosling, and
Ashton Kutsher have all been spotted wearing them.
To answer
some of your questions: The color matching rules for bow ties are the same as
for other ties, and, yes, there are a couple of don’ts. One is the same as the
rule for long (four-in-hand) ties, and that is never match it exactly to anything else you are wearing, such as a
pocket square or braces (suspenders). Coordinated in color and pattern, yes,
but as I’ve written before: A man wearing two exactly matched items looks as if
he were dressed out of a kit -- not your most sophisticated image. The second
no-no is essential: Do NOT wear a pre-tied
bow tie or, worse, a clip-on. Learning how to tie one yourself is really not
difficult. If you can locate online my now out-of-print book, “Dress for
Excellence,” you will find exact directions. If not, the Internet can be very
helpful.
To answer
your next question about doing “something different,” I have some major concerns
about going too far. Despite the fact that this past year has seen a big spurt
in younger men deciding to incorporate bow ties into their wardrobes, the style
is still somewhat of a departure. A well-dressed guy may enjoy being seen as an
individual or a maverick, but he should definitely avoid any hint of
exhibitionism. Having a signature look – say, wearing a lot of the color pink
as you mentioned – works when incorporated into standard, classic items; but
inserting a noticeable departure into something that is already even a slight
digression verges on childish showing off. Subtlety
is the essence of stylish sophistication.
There are
certainly opportunities to personalize. One point of personalization is the
opportunity to choose any one of five different bow tie shapes. These are
offered by Beau Ties Ltd., a company I have recently learned of and am very
impressed with. Beau Ties Ltd. has made a name for itself by devoting its
efforts to making beautiful, well-priced ties. While in recent years, neckties have
become more and more expensive, because a bow tie is such a small item, it
somehow rankles to pay between $60 and $120 for one. At Beau Ties their very
best ties are between $40 and $50. In fact, the company makes bow ties for
many upscale stores to sell under their own label at considerably higher
prices.
www.BeauTiesLtd.com
offers more than 200 patterns to choose from. They are all handmade from high quality
fabrics and offer many options. For weddings, they give the groom (and his
groomsmen) the same service a bride has: They will send fabric swatches and
match special colors. But perhaps the most unique service they offer is what
they call the “conversion program”; they will convert your own long tie into a
bow tie for $35. The company says they are aimed at men who are fans of Robert
Frost: They want to follow a path less traveled.
Necktie
note: For some reason, consistency in lengths of long ties does not seem to be
a huge priority in the necktie industry. Ties are manufactured in lengths that
range from 55 to 58 inches. If you’re tall, those three inches can make a big
difference. Besides bow ties, Beau Ties Ltd. also makes long (four-in-hand)
ties that can be personalized as to length. You can order a tie from their website
in any one of four lengths: 58 inches (standard), 60, 62, or 64 inches. Or you
can phone them at 800-488-8437, and they will cut the tie to your exact
specification. There is an additional charge of $8 for non-standard lengths,
and well worth it. I don’t know any other company that offers this service.
Ties offer
an avenue to be distinctive. But the well-dressed man is always stylish without
being flamboyant.
