Made-to-Measure Suits

Q. I don't live anywhere near a good men's store, but nevertheless I need a suit that fits. What do you think of ordering a Made-to-Measure Suit? I don't see how one could fit right even if I sent them my exact measurements. Don't you always need to tailor a suit, especially for the jacket? After all, some men -- including myself -- have a kind of extra "hump" at the upper part of their back, and jackets that don't fit right tend to lift up at the bottom.

A. I cannot imagine how you could determine your “exact measurements” accurately enough to have a suit made to your specifications from afar. You would be seriously looking for trouble. There are too many variables: the correct inseam measurement, the outseam, the back, the shoulder slope, etc., etc. Keep in mind that once a made-to-measure suit is cut, it is yours; no if’s, and’s, or but’s. It just would not work. 

It’s much easier – and your satisfaction is more assured  – if you travel some distance to a good men’s store than to attempt to order a made-to-measure suit from a distance.

                                     

If you do decide to travel to a top-notch store – one that you feel confident will supply you with an excellent fit – you can either order a made-to-measure suit from them or, perhaps better yet, buy two of their finest ready-made suits while you are there. Their tailors will make them fit. And these days, when current style dictates suit silhouettes that are a bit slimmer and trimmer, a good fit becomes even more important.                                       

  

I should preface this advice by saying that when looking for a new suit, it is wise to develop a well-thought-out shopping strategy. First step, before you accept the offer from a salesperson to help you, ask to speak to the Store Manager (or at least the Suit Department Manager). I am a firm believer in approaching the manager before you begin to shop. Explain your situation clearly and unmistakably. Tell the manager that you are “a difficult fit” and that you really need him to find you the salesperson who knows the most about fit, not just the one whose turn it is to wait on the next customer. My advice is to say – in the nicest, most polite terms you can muster – that fit is extremely important to you and that you will be returning the suit if it does not fit properly. That gets their attention! And will get you their most experienced salesperson. Then follow it up with a similar request for a knowledgeable tailor. You cannot imagine how much anxiety this removes from the entire shopping experience.    

                                                          

As an alternative, if you are unwilling to travel some distance to find an outstanding men’s clothing store, your path is less clear and the outcome is more questionable. 

                                              

While I may be speculating here, I’ll bet there is at least a decent men’s shop (even if not what you consider to be “a good men’s store”) not too far away. The store probably has a qualified tailor who can do a good job of altering their off-the-rack suits.

Or if not, perhaps they can help you locate a good independent tailor. With his help, you might be able to buy suits with more confidence from a nearby mid-level store, or through a catalog, or even online. But the truth is that finding an excellent tailor on your own is not easy. (Your wife’s dressmaker or the alteration person at your local dry-cleaner is not a satisfactory substitute!) If the store has no name to offer, your best bet is to ask a friend whose clothes fit him well for a recommendation.

                                  

Note: For young men whose bodies are nearly perfect, buying an off-the-rack suit that fits nicely is not difficult. Most suits will fit them. But as a person ages, and as his body develops its own little (and not so little) idiosyncrasies, a good fit becomes more problematic. Unfortunately, many men do not care so much about the fine points. But, since you are more invested in the idea of a “suit that fits,” then traveling a bit to accomplish your goal becomes well worth the investment of time.

After all, suits last for years, and one that fits you perfectly will not only bring you much satisfaction but many compliments. 

The Right Length for a Tie

Q. The other day my ballroom dance teacher, who always wears a shirt and tie, kept looking in the mirror trying to fix the length of his tie. When I asked what was the matter, he said, "It doesn't look right. The bottom point is supposed to touch my belt buckle." I thought that was ridiculous. He looked fine to me. Is there really a rigid rule about where the tip is supposed to touch?

A. Well, guess what? He is right! I wouldn’t go so far as to say there is a rigid rule about how far down the tip of the tie is supposed to extend, but there sort of is a rule.

The length of ties, when tied, is relatively constant. The tip should extend down to the belt. Not below it. Nor above it.

Ties are manufactured in lengths that range from 54 to 57 inches. The adjustment for the right length when tied, of course, comes from the balance between the ends before a man ties the knot. Consistency in lengths does not seem to be a high priority in the necktie manufacturing industry. Still, if a man is particularly tall, those three inches can make a difference. If he needs a longer tie, he need not confine himself to the limited choice in a “tall-men’s store.” Here is a better method: When shopping for a tie, it is wise to narrow your selection down to a few best bets, lay them out on the counter, and see which ones are the longest. That should help considerably in making a decision.

When it comes to tying a necktie, some mistakes are not as bad as others. A somewhat too-long tie (that is, one that extends slightly below the belt) is not a terrible mistake as long as it is only “slightly” longer and does not look like a long bib. But a tie that is too short (that does not reach down to the belt) ends up exposing some shirt between the bottom of the tie and the top of the pants. This is definitely a bigger mistake with distracting, unsophisticated overtones: 1.] It appears to be a small boy’s dressing error, and 2.] It draws the eye to the middle of the body, making it seem that the man must be so fat that his tie cannot cover properly.

As to the proper length of the back piece of the tie? It is immaterial, as no one sees it (unless it is left to flap visibly). Just concentrate on having the front piece fall at the belt line.

Incidentally, these days, when tie clasps are once again in style, it is possible to make certain that the tie (including its back portion) hangs down perfectly straight.

While this may seem like a ridiculously lot of fuss over a very small point, it makes more sense than you might think. As I have been saying (and writing) for years, the one item in a man’s closet that is most noticed and that makes more of an impression than perhaps anything else is his tie. It would be a serious mistake to underestimate the importance of this smallest item in a man’s overall look. Once he has gone to the effort to choose a handsome tie and to color coordinate it with his other clothes, he might as well take the time to tie it so it hangs correctly.

Please tell your teacher I salute him!